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March 2017 / Food & Drink / by Ann Hall

If Music Be The Food Of Love…

Fancy a night at the opera, with less pomp and more food? Situated halfway between Clapham Junction and Battersea, TWID (That’s What I Do) is Peter Ilic’s latest venture – his Little Bay Battersea restaurant revamped, rebranded and reopened. With wonderfully theatrical décor, and tiered seating booths, we were serenaded upon arrival by tenor Toby Sims with a familiar sounding Russian aria, his first set in full fettle. The venue immediately oozed glamour, culture and… fun!

We were led up some narrow wooden stairs to a velvet-curtained theatre box, with a bird’s eye view of the eight-seater table upon which our performer strutted and sang. To settle in, we chose some Prosecco-based cocktails, the Rossini (strawberry and rose water) and an Elderflower Spritz (vodka and St Germain liqueur). Our maître d’ was tremendously proud of the menu and couldn’t recommend just one dish, so luckily, we got to choose many sharing platters. The menu changes periodically, but we tasted scallops with crispy kale, raspberries and hazelnuts – sublime; grilled aubergine stuffed with goat’s cheese and walnuts – delicious; and tender lamb cutlets with roasted parsnips and beets – succulent. Whilst Mr Sims took his first 25 minute interlude, we ordered more, and this time tasted the duck with pickled cauliflower, raisins and apples – sweet and spicy; and a sushi terrine with avocado and a hint of wasabi – highly recommended!

Dessert was a more sobering affair. With the health conscious in mind, TWID serve raw organic gluten-, dairy- and sugar-free cakes in various flavours – mango, chocolate, strawberry and carrot. However ‘proper’ desserts are also available, should you wish to sweeten the mood. As the evening drew to a conclusion, we were visited several times at our table by the very passionate opera singer, intent on dramatic interaction with his audience. Listening to Nessun Dorma sung intimately in one’s ear, with a mouthful of shaven parsnips, is an experience in itself.

With overtures of glamour and pomp, yet an intimate setting, TWID offers a cultural dining experience. The food was faultless, and the entertainment talented, yet not to be taken too seriously. At weekends a DJ strikes up after 10pm, so prepare to dance on that table and set the bari-tone high.

Twitter and Instagram: @TWIDBar

Monday – Sunday: midday-3pm and 6pm-12pm

228 York Road, Battersea, London, SW11 3SJ (0207 223 2125; twid-restaurantbar.co.uk)