Are you a fan of brunch, but a tad weary of bottomless Prosecco and Eggs Benedict? Then you’ll be as thrilled as I was to hear that Eneko at One Aldwych is offering a fresh take on this increasingly popular way of easing yourself into the weekend.
Having had an excellent dinner at Eneko Atxa’s London outpost, I had high expectations of this new offering. And I was not disappointed. The three Michelin-starred chef has given the brunch menu an authentically Basque flavour, basing it on a quartet of Basque culinary styles: Euskal Azoka (street food), Gallinero (eggs), Txoko (classics) and Asador (grill). The bite-sized street food dishes are perfect for sharing, whereas the other elements come in heartier portions. Having studied the menu over our complimentary glass of Prosecco we elected to mix and match small and large plates.
First up was the Arraultzak small plate, a satisfyingly unctuous rustic dish of fried eggs, wild asparagus and a rich piquillo pepper confit, sitting on a soft, taco-like base. It was followed by another small plate – a talo of heritage tomatoes, garnished with pansies. It was almost too pretty to eat. But not quite, and the freshness of the tomatoes were a fresh counterpoint to the rich flavours of the previous dish. Another small plate, ox cheek on brioche was toothsome and comforting. We finished with a shared large plate – an astonishingly fresh grilled yellowfin tuna with a perfectly-dressed green salad. Orange juice and artisan coffee were the ideal accompaniment – we both had other engagements that were not compatible with copious amounts of alcohol, but another time we will definitely enjoy another glass or two of bubbly. This is a brunch worth lingering over.
1 Aldwych, WC2 (020 7300 0300; eneko.london)