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February 2017 / Food & Drink / by Penny Clements

Brunching at Kiru

Tucked away on the corner of Chelsea Green, this modern Japanese restaurant has quickly made its mark on the area since opening in April last year. And as a big fan of Japanese food, I was very excited at the prospect of sampling the restaurant’s new bottomless brunch concept. Kiru’s executive chef Taiji Maruyama is a third generation sushi chef who spent nearly seven years honing his skills at Nobu Berkeley and Nobu London, so we were pretty confident the experience would not disappoint.

As you’d expect of a Japanese restaurant, Kiru’s interior is cool and minimalist: floor length windows flood the room with light and the walls are punctuated with colourful artwork. The vibe is chilled, but we’re greeted warmly when we arrive and shown to our seats overlooking the green.

The bottomless options on the brunch menu are Prosecco (my choice), white wine (Picpoul de Pinet) and sake – and our glasses are most definitely kept full throughout the meal. The food menu was simple yet sophisticated, offering a choice of hot and cold starters, a main and dessert. I never quite know what to go for when it comes to Japanese, so a bottomless brunch is just perfect if, like me, you’re indecisive.

The cold buffet was wonderfully fresh and beautifully presented. The sushi, tacos and white fish truffle ponzu were absolutely delicious, but my out-and-out favourite was definitely the miso ceviche. Served in a glass with infusions of lemon, garlic and ginger, this carefully constructed dish was unbelievably refreshing. From the hot menu, we ordered salmon teriyaki and the shrimp and vegetable tempura. We couldn’t manage a side dish, but we could have ordered rice and/or a salad, too, if we’d been in the mood for more. The salmon fillet was a generous portion drizzled lightly in teriyaki; it was perfectly cooked and simply melted in the mouth. The shrimp and vegetable tempura was hearty, but maybe a little heavy on the batter for our liking. We finished with some smooth, palate-cleansing ice cream: my partner opted for the green tea flavour while I had chocolate.

At Kiru you can’t help but feel relaxed. The staff are fantastic and the presentation and quality of the food can’t be faulted. If you’re in the area, hungry and in the mood for Japanese, I’d highly recommend Kiru for a lazy Sunday afternoon brunch and at an all-inclusive price, it was excellent value for money.

2 Elystan St, Chelsea SW3 (020 7584 9999; kirurestaurant.com)

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